
My favorite John Muir quote (don’t remember where I read it) advises, “Don’t go to Alaska when you are young, it will ruin you for life.” I’m not young any more but I see what he was getting at. I read his book, Travels in Alaska, when I was in Nome three years ago. When our family started talking about an Alaska cruise, I was ready to go back. Even though I don’t consider myself a cruise person.

So one morning a few weeks ago I woke up around 5am, sleepless in Seattle. I hiked up to Kerry Park with a nice view of downtown and the harbor and got a good photo. Then the fog rolled in, and the people who joined me over the next hour did not get the same view.

Fog would be our nemesis later but soon we were on the boat and cruising out of the harbor.

I think this guy was on our tail just to enjoy the waves created by our huge boat. But I suppose he could have been a latecomer and was trying to catch us. Probably not.

Our group was 14 in all, family and friends, with an official cruise T-shirt designed by our son Drew (back row, second from right).

One way to describe Voyager of the Seas would be: a huge shopping mall. Many ways to spend your money. But the food was abundant, tasted good and was mostly free (well, already paid for, depending on where you chose to eat).

You could be sitting down to a meal and, occasionally, watching whale spouts off in the distance.

There were also recreational opportunities such as mini golf and a climbing wall. I did not climb the wall, but daughter Sara did, and rang the bell at the top.

I chose pickleball instead, at least four of the days at sea.

There was also lots of time to watch the waves roll by, sunrise to sunset.

Our first excursion was whale watching, on a small boat out of Juneau to see humpback whales in their natural playground.

We were not disappointed. And we were not alone.

Our crew said that we were observing two separate pods of whales, “bubble feeding,” at least 19 whales in all.

The next day we docked at Skagway and boarded the cruise boat’s tenders to go ashore. Our first leg was a bus ride up the Klondike highway all the way to the border with Canada and the Yukon Territory.


We saw a bear along the road.

Lots of beautiful scenery.

Crossed the Yukon suspension bridge and tasted their buffalo chili. (delicious!)

Hung out with a few local mounties (with Drew and Sam).

Then we boarded the White Pass and Yukon Railroad back to Skagway.

Enjoying more of the stunning scenery.

The next day was disappointing. Anticipating the beautiful waterfalls and glaciers in the Endicott Arm fjord, we were stymied by thick fog and icebergs at the entrance. So after a while we turned around and left.

Nonetheless, we still saw other glaciers and waterfalls. Incredible!

Along the way we were shadowed by other cruise ships.

Beyond that, we saw very little other maritime traffic.

Our final stop was Victoria, British Columbia, including the Butchart Gardens, a former limestone quarry turned into a showpiece of bright colors.

The Japanese Garden was a highlight for us.

Lots of walking but well worth the exercise.

All too soon we were cruising past a lighthouse and Seattle was coming into view.

For a few minutes, early in the morning, Mt. Rainier was visible before the fog returned. It was great fun. Was this my last time in Alaska? There’s so much more to see. Only time will tell.